The Judging Circuit

Judging season is upon us and I have been busy judging wines, but wine competitions have come under fire lately.  LA Times writer Jerry Hirsch helped propogate the bad press by calling attention to a study conducted by retired Humboldt State professor Robert Hodgson http://articles.latimes.com/2009/jan/29/business/fi-wine29 .  It’s not new to challenge the process, but this recent four year study claims that only 10% of judges could consistently judge a wine when tasted multiple times.  This is not unusual information, most of us know that if you are presented three samples of which two are identical, but you are told that there is a difference among all three that it is almost unheard of to call out that two are the same.  Your brain creates distinction amongst the samples.  I have not seen the proof created to validate Hodgson’s claims, but I wonder about the parameters, were all the wines identical in temperature?  Were all judges tested in this way?  Were other competitions evaluated?  What time of day were the samples presented?  What about order error or the wines placed before the identical samples, this can have a dramatic effect on how that sample might taste.  There are many variables to be considered.

Frankly I am not convinced about this study until I can read the brief and fully understand the methodology.  I am saddened that at a time where so many in this industry are struggling an attack on judgings would hit.  Judgings can really help sell wine.   While Professor Hodgson says, “Consumers should have a healthy skepticism about the medals awarded to wines from the various competitions,”  I believe there is nothing about a competition that makes it less useful or less accurate than the recommendations of a retailer, magazine or other wine critic. In fact I believe panels of judges can actually be more fair than one individual’s palate no matter how critically acclaimed. 

Most critics judge open label while almost all competitions are 100 percent blind, ie the judges may have information as to the variety or the vintage and in rare instances price or origin, but they are not swayed by the label or by the reputation of the producer. Judging panels are usually diverse including winemakers, educators, retail and restaurant buyers, salespeople, writers and sometimes even consumers. The diversity of the panel allows for checks and balances while a writer that tastes for a review gives you only the impression of one palate.

Granted, judgings are varied in the quality of the judges and their prestige, so I generally try to evaluate which judgings are worth doing.  Consumers might think to do the same thing, just as Parker may appeal to some while Tanzer appeals to others, perhaps consumers can gauge the competitions that seem to fit with their general palate preferences. 

On a personal level I gauge which competitions are most enjoyable and that is usually a reflection of the calibre of judges and the sense of camaraderie amongst them. That said there are judgings that are of course well respected that I have not been invited to. Not only do judgings offer a source of information for consumer buying and give wineries medals to tout and display, but they are a great resource for wine buyers- many use them to find out what wines they like without prejudice.  One of the ways I became more versed in wines of the world was wine competitions.  Sometimes you might get a chance to try wines you would never choose to open like fruit wines, hybrids or varieties you might not normally gravitate towards.  Judging with more experienced tasters is the best way to hone your palate, especially if you have the benefit of trying a type of wine that is their specialty.  It is extremely eye-opening to evaluate wines fairly even if they are of a style of which you are not normally fond. 

Most competitions treat the wines as a group amongst themselves, for example a gold medal Syrah doesn’t need to be the best Syrah you have ever had, it’s more like a county fair judging of livestock, how does the wine match up compared to the other wines entered.  I have never tasted the wines he makes, but Hodgson claims that he conducted this study because wines he entered into competitions sometimes won gold medals and other times won nothing.  All I can say is a girl might win a crown at her home town beauty pageant but that doesn’t make her Miss America.  It all depends on the competition. 

 

 

 

Dallas Morning News Competition http://www.dallaswinecomp.com/ (February)

When time allows I like to take in some of the local culture.  The days I was in Dallas the King Tut exhibition was in town so I was able to visit that with my friend Joel Butler, MW.  Over thew weekend we were comfortably housed at the lovely Hotel Adolphus.

Dining experiences included York Street, an amazing but tiny restaurant in an unusual location (6047 Lewis) with my friends Dr. Bob Small (he makes Dr. Bob’s Handcrafted Ice Cream http://www.drbobsicecream.com/ try the Strawberries with Sour Cream & Brown Sugar) and Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse.  The next night was a walkaround tasting of last year’s winning wines with some of the area’s top restaurants.  Particularly notable was the White Seaweed Salad from Tei-An, so I joined Drew and our friends Meghan and Brandan there.  We had the Omakase (tasting) menu including the phenomenal pairing of buckwheat tea with a truffled risotto.  I also thought the soba course with egg was incredible.  Tei-An 1722 Routh Street, Suite 110 Dallas, TX 75201 214 220-2828

National Women’s Wine Competition http://www.nwwc.info/ (March)

In Santa Rosa the National Women’s Wine Competition offered a unique opportunity to interact with some of the most amazing women in the industry.  We hit some local dining spots such as Syrah Bistro 205 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 707 568-4002 www.syrahbistro.com and of course Willi’s Wine Bar 4404 Old Redwood Highway Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707 526-3096 www.williswinebar.net

San Diego International Wine Competition http://www.sdiwc.com/

Part of my love of competitions is visiting fun places!  The luxury of staying at the Westgate Hotel in San Diego can’t be beat.  Add to that a visit to Old Town San Diego (missed that this time).  I did make it to the amazing San Diego Zoo (www.sandiegozoo.org) where I had the chance to see BABY meerkats.  That’s right BABY MEERKATS!!  (I love meerkats almost as much as wine.)  Let me tell you though, the pandas were pretty BORING.  I also ate at El Indio a fun Mexican restaurant and tortilla factory near the airport just off N I-5 (exit Washington Street and proceed north) at 3685 India Street (619) 299-0333.  It was founded in 1940.  Really good chips and taquitos (they claim they first coined the word taquito.)  www.el-indio.com.  We also enjoyed two meals at the Yard House, one of the better chain restaurants with an unending selection of beers on tap.  They carded me too, twice!  Made me feel great.  The gala dinner was a blast as Robert Whitley was kind enough to allow me to sing two of my songs acapella for the group to raise cash donations for Camp Oliver.   Hmm, maybe they were paying me to STOP singing?!  One of the highlights of this judging was an amazing little day glow pink wine that I thought tasted EXACTLY like Tootsie Rolls.  While fruit wines are a unique and often scoffed at judging category there was also an amazing little strawberry wine (Saint James Winery $8.99), but this “Tootsie Roll” wine was astounding.  Let’s just say that I would have been able to suck that stuff down as a Freshman in college.  It was from Trout Springs Winery and called Afternoon Delight ($19.99).  We sent it to sweepstakes so that everyone could taste it!

Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition (formerly called Los Angeles County Fair Wines of the World Competition) http://www.lawinecomp.com Wine Judging May 27-29, 2009/Spirits June 1-2, 2009

Held in conjunction with the Los Angeles County Fair Association I have to admit this is my favorite competition of all.  The number and calibre of judges is amazing.  We also all know how to have a really great time.  I may hold some bias as I am the Chair of the spirits side of the competition.  The ability to judge with such an esteemed group cannot be beat.  I learned my judging skills due to the amazing help and guidance from the best on the circuit, Don Galleano, Gary Eberle, Mitch Cosentino, Darrell Corti, Dan Berger and many others.  Plus judges are often invited back to attend the Los Angeles County Fair in September where they teach consumers directly about the products they judged.  This cannot be beat, plus you get to eat fried twinkies and sno cones and watch pig races and see baby animals.  And Dr. Bob runs it so there is always ice cream!  And Tequila!  YAY!

San Francisco International http://www.sfwinecomp.com/ (June)

The San Francisco International judging is another fun event held annually by Anthony Dias Blue.  There is a friendly rivalry between the SF competition and the LA, but Andy still keeps inviting me back, I am honored.  He and his crew of judges are some of the funnest (I know that is not a word) in the biz.  We have been known to judge hard and party hard!  There has been occasional karaoke…enough said.

Las Vegas Bar Show: Innovative Product Awards and Honorable Mentions

Yes, granted, my job is kinda weird.  I do all sorts of random things but even I concede that the weirdest of them all is the Vegas Bar Show.  The Show is run by Nightclub and Bar Magazine in Las Vegas annually in conjunction with the Restaurant Show and Hotel Show.  The Vegas Bar Show is to my knowledge the largest in the United States.  I have not been to any of the other shows, but this show is really unique.

At this show you not only find great spirits producers, interesting innovations but also craziness, craziness to put other spiritous events to shame.  The event is fun of course as you get to run around and taste new spirits but at the same time there are a slew of wristband vendors, glassware vendors, disc jockey suppliers, urinal cake vendors, exterminators, etc.  So if you are in fact a bar or restaurant owner this show has some very real merit to you.  Add to that energy drinks, costume salespeople (do you remember that CSI about Las Vegas’ Furries that dress up in animal costumes?  They had these there in case you need them), and stripper pole salespeople.  Spirits companies have realized that the majority of attendees are male and as a result have numerous “models” on hand to promote their products, dancing, sliding down plastic slides into pools of energy drinks and the like.  Ironically the show has a disclaimer that says “Attendees would avoid wearing any clothing that may be interpreted as promiscuous, provacative or overly suggestive.”  but no one seemed to be cited.

The bar show is not all about fun and games and “micro” wrestling, it also offers many seminars, mix offs, parties and event that make it educational.  While the scene was very crazy I was able to glean some interesting information about new trends and some interesting products!

Great Products (REALLY!)

Amarula Cream

This was an exciting spirit from Africa made from the Marula tree.  Technically known as teh “Sclerocarya Birrea” this tree produces a fruit with white flesh around a large stone.  Elephants are known to be drawn to the fragrant ripening fruit and come from miles away to eat from the tree, so it’s also known as the “Elephant Tree”.    This liqueur is made from this Marula fruit and has a really unique flavor.  Texturally it is of course creamy, but it is not as sweet as you would expect.  I can think of some really interesting applications for it and have to say I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed it as I am not usually a fan of cream liqueurs!  Imported by A.V. Brands, Columbia, MD.

Mekhong The Spirit of Thailand www.thespiritofthailand.com 

Mekhong was something I had never tried and I really liked it.  It comes from Thailand and is really unique, like nothing I have ever tasted.  It is distilled from cane and about 5% rice.  They have created a recipe book with the team at Employees Only in Manhattan and I expect that once tasted by more bartenders this will be a bit hit across the country.  Somewhat spiced, strong yet not overly so and very mixable with citrus or tropical fruits it was exotic and intriguing.  I can’t wait to get a bottle in my hands to see what else it’s capable of!

Mejor Tequila www.mejortequila.com

Mejor offers some really flavorful and correct tequilas.  They had a silver, Reposado and Anejo but I have to say I was also intrigued by the appearance and packaging of their pink tequila.  I guess I am a girl after all.  What I liked about it was that it was a pretty shade of pink but was pure and agave flavored like the silver.  No added energy enhancements, supplements, bitterness, flavoring etc., just pink!

Firestarter Vodka www.firestarter-vodka.com

Although it was late in the day and I had no desire to taste another vodka, the package for this product was truly exceptional.  The vodka is made of wheat and comes from Moldova which is interesting, but the draw is that it resembles an actual fire extinguisher and has a really cool box that houses it.  The only thing I would worry about is that if I got too drunk and there was a fire, I might grab the bottle and make the fire worse.  That’s just me though I guess.

Questionable products, but perhaps useful:

Urine Off by Bio-Pro Research www.urineoff.com 

I took notice of this due to the very fancy rolling “briefcases” they were doling out and did some research.  The catalog says “Urine Off uses green technology to permanently remove the toughest urine odors and stains, even old stains.”  “Urine Off also works on other body fluids such as semen, blood, etc. and many organic deposits…an effective weapon to solve the toughest hospitality issues.”  This product makes me never want to stay in a hotel again.  Did you know that the remote control is the dirtiest thing in the hotel room?  Think about it. 

The Booze Belly by P&P Imports www.pandpimports.com

This handy plastic “belly” holds your favorite beverage against your belly so that you can sneak it into a sporting event.  I was surprised that they didn’t have booze boobies, and a bit disappointed.  I would think that most folks that are desparate to smuggle their beer into a game against their belly where it gets all warm and steamy may not have that much extra room for the Booze Belly, but the boobies would be useful don’t you think?  Except that whether or not your team wins at the end of the game you’d be feeling a bit deflated.  They also sell floating beer pong holders.  Can someone tell me how you play beer pong in the pool?

VingCard www.vingcard.com

You know this company for their very useful cards that work (sometimes) on hotel room doors allowing you access to your room.  That is unless you happen to be like me who shorts the magnetic cards out all the time.  The good news is that they have exciting new technology that should allow you to use what usually shorts those cards out, your PHONE to get into your room.  I didn’t get a chance to check it out but it sounded convenient to me.  On a side note, I stayed at the Flamingo, one of the Harrah’s casino chain and was dismayed that my room key card looked exactly like my Harrah’s Casino players card, whose brilliant idea was that?  I was giving my room key to the pit boss and trying to open my door with points.

Noah’s Ark Resort 801 785 3680

Seems that this company sells the right for sale for 300 lovely animal motif rooms that look like Noah’s Ark.  “All features are Noah and the Flood related.”  Computer generated rainstorms and rainbow in the Rainbow Restaurant and best of all Mt Ararat ballroom.  I think if you have a hankering to open a business franchise screw Dunkin’ Donuts, this is what you’ve been waiting for.

And the winners for NOT such a good idea:

Agwa de Bolivia Coca Leaf Liquor www.agwabuzz.com 

Sorry, but anything that says “Warning No More Than 3!” is not for me, but perhaps you would really enjoy it.  This liqueur contains 40 grams of coca leaf extract per liter and is made, where else, Amsterdam.  It happens to be 100% Natural and also contains Guarana and Ginseng, talk about a buzz.  They suggest serving with a bite of fresh lime before which “activates the alkaloids of the coca leaf to produce a powerful oxygen buzz.”  I opted to skip this one. 

Smokeless Cigarettes (multiple booths)

Pure nicotine straight to your lungs!  You don’t even need matches!  Apparently it’s better for you since you don’t have to get all the carbon monoxide, just pure nicotine.  YUM!

The DraftMaster by ESS Ellickson Software Systems 866 503-0578

“The 21st century pitcher!”  “Allow your customers to pour their own draft beer AT THEIR TABLE while you control How much they consume… Get paid for every drop!”  How in the world is this legal?  Does this tap card them too?  Although I think I see a place for this in airport bars where it seems the waitresses don’t realize that EVERYONE in there has places to go.  Except them.  Ok, now I see.

Off the strip

Laura Herbert, my good friend from grammar school who happens to now be on the Board of Trustees of the Burlesque Hall of Fame www.burlesquehall.com has shown me that there is more to Vegas than the strip.  First, Frankie’s Tiki Bar is a great place, not too far from the strip, to indulge in your inner tiki.  Be aware that it tends to be pretty smoky but the cocktails are great and the new owner has created a crazy tiki vibe.  The way Vegas should be!

Forever locals have been telling me about the infamous Lotus of Siam restaurant, 953 E Sahara Ave #A-5, 702 735-3033  Hard to get into but worth it and their Tom Ka Gai might just burn a hole in your stomach or make you cry, so be CAREFUL!  But it’s well worth the pain.  The food is incredible and the wine list is something Riesling and Gruner Veltliner afficionados would die for, and well priced.  I am sure that after saying this that my Vegas friends will give me the “what for” for telling you about it and this may need to come off my site soon, so take down the info and GO!

Laura and I hit a party for Hendrick’s Gin at the Artisan Hotel, (1501 W Sahara Avenue, Las Vegas, NV 89102 www.theartisanhotel.com) one of the nicer properties off the strip.  Comfortable bar, cozy atmosphere and apparently a great place to stay.  Maybe I was swayed by the Hendrick’s cocktails?  But I had a great time.  Sometimes you just need to get away, even in Vegas.  Try also the Green Valley Ranch and the Red Rock Hotel, two nice off strip casino hotels that let you escape the strip mania.

 

TIPS

I was able to get a $56 rate at the Flamingo Hotel, very decent accomodations, because I am a gamber.  If you gamble at all please be sure to get a players card at each location at which you spend money because you can get great discounts!

Resume vs Reputation-How to Get More than 15 Minutes in the Wine Business

Almost weekly I get a call or email asking what it takes to be in the wine business.  For awhile I even got calls saying, ok, so I just got in the wine business last quarter and I have taken a few classes, so I was wondering how I can do what you do?!

I respond, “Well, it’s a long road!”  And I explain my path… College education in food & beverage, great connections,  lucky chances, bartending, retail experience, waiting tables, inventory, stocking, intensive study for the MW, money spent on travel, humility, etc. and then they say, “Well, I want to do what you do but in 3 years, not 10.” 

WOW!  Do they realize how insulting that sounds?  I think to myself, ”So do you really mean to say that I wasted all that time stocking and serving drinks and such, and that you could just take a class and be a professional.  Really?”  Sure if I had just had that bright idea of calling up a professional in the industry and asking for an informational interview I’d be Jancis Robinson today.  NOT!   

I was fortunate enough to be trained by the best in the business, those that were at the top of their game and I believe that if you ask most of them they will tell you that there are no short cuts into the wine business.

 Of course there will be those that say, “But I have a fantastic resume!”  And sadly a lot of those folks do get very impressive sounding jobs.  I’ve been seeing a lot of this lately.  Now that anyone can blog, who needs real world experience?  Ironically many publications will hire someone just on a resume (lucky you!) and allow you to write a column or feature or whatever because they think you have great credentials.  But the truth is do they fact check?  Do they know that your last five “gigs” were incredibly unhappy with your performance?  Do they realize that REAL educators actually then have to step in and perform crisis control?  Do they understand that you are actually a fraud?  All too soon they will realize that not only is their new hire not qualified, but they are not respected in the industry. 

I may sound overly critical, but I just really don’t want you to fall into the same trap.  Credentials may help get you to the top, but you won’t be able to stay there and it certainly won’t make you any friends. It reminds me of one of the greatest management concepts I learned at Cornell, the Peter principle, “In a Hierarchy Every Employee Tends to Rise to His Level of Incompetence.”   This happens more often than you can imagine and it’s a recipe for a quick rise in the industry and a quick fall from grace. 

Believe me, I understand the desire to take the fast track, but when you guys who want the fast track ask me for my advice and then tell me that you are not willing to put in the time and effort to get there, I immediately lose respect.  Ask any MW/MS and they will tell you that achieving success in the wine industry is not a short term proposition.  It takes years, even a lifetime or generations.  You are dealing with a product that is many years in the making.  Patience in the wine industry is more than a virtue, it’s a necessity.

So here are my top 10 suggestions for becoming successful in the wine business (not to imply that I am a success by the way.)

10.  Be OPEN to ideas.  There is no one right way, no one credential or degree that can buy you a spot at the top of the business.  There is no perfect job to launch your career.  Don’t forget that it’s not the destination but your path that is what makes you an asset to the wine industry.  I never did achieve the Master of Wine title but if I did not devote so much time and energy to it I would not have made it to where I am today.  I would not trade those years for any initials after my name.

9.  Be INQUISITIVE.  Ask questions, get opinions, do research, find out as many possible explanations as possible and then search for the answers.  

8.  Be PROACTIVE.  No one, not even the very best educators out there, will be able to teach you what you need to know to become an expert.  You must always be learning, searching, enriching yourself.  This is not a static business but requires constant research.  Take what resonates with you from each mentor and find your own truth by combining all these lessons.

7.  Be SOCIAL.  Your best possible asset is the network you create.  Getting to know the major players can be helpful, but do not discount your peers or those you would think are “behind you.”  You never know where these people are going to pop up.

6.  Be GENUINE.  It’s all too obvious when someone is out there trying to gain momentum by stepping on the shoulders of others rather than taking the time to chart a course all their own. 

5.  Be RESPECTFUL.  Do not assume the business owes you anything.  We are very fortunate to have opportunities to taste, experience, dine, and travel.  Take these for granted and you will have lost an incredible lesson. 

4.  Be KIND.  Don’t forget that you are not in the business alone.  There are plenty of support staff that help you do what you do.  A busser or dishwasher in a restaurant, a delivery person, vineyard workers, these people all incorporate their work and effort into making you look good and making you a success.  The way you treat them ultimately reflects on your reputation.  I am amazed at how I have seen people treated.  You would be surprised to find that it does not go unnoticed and immediately reflects on your character.

3.  Be PROFESSIONAL.  It seems so simple, but the wine business is still a business.  You are expected to conduct yourself in a manner that is comparable to other businesses.  For example, that does not mean that you do not return phone calls, emails, etc. (I am definitely email/voice mail “challenged” but I never DELETE an email or voicemail without EVENTUALLY following up).  It also seems like second nature, but even at times when the business becomes social you should still be a consummate professional, ie you should not be getting drunk at tastings, driving under the influence, etc.  The benefits of this business are great but the pressures that alcohol consumption can place on you are also great, so be aware that your behavior always reflects upon your reputation whether at a tasting, event or party.  It’s a balancing game between being a fun addition to a party while still maintaining respectability.  (There are of course times I have slipped off that balance beam, I’m no Mary Lou you know.)

2.  Be GENEROUS.  With your time, your passion.  And hopefully your wine.

1.  Be HUMBLE.  Humility is an essential tenet of the industry, there is always more to learn, another vintage, another region, another paradigm shift.  Don’t ever be cocky, and don’t forget where you started, try to inspire those just starting on the same path.

Jardiniere $45 Monday Prix Fixe WITH wine

The past two weeks found me at one of my favorite haunts on Monday.  Perhaps it’s because I used to work there, but Jardiniere is one of the greatest restaurants in the city.  Traci Des Jardins and her team always deliver.  Two weeks ago I went with some friends to enjoy the Devil’s Gulch prix fixe dinner, because who can beat $45 for a three course WITH wine!?  We enjoyed the charcuterie to share and then a salad with rabbit, a lamb ragout dish and a lovely rhubarb crostada all paired expertly with some Italian wines, not full glasses, but enough to hold you through each course comfortably.  We really enjoyed the meal seated at a table, but I was out of my element because I really enjoy watching all the action at Jardiniere from a seat at the gorgeous circular bar.

I went back again last week for the Dordogne dinner which included an incredibly satisfying cassoulet.  I was on my own and on the way to a Chartreuse sponsored karaoke gong show party (I know, random), so I ate at the bar this time.  Bartenders at Jardiniere are really friendly, make great cocktails and really work hard to provide the same calibre of service you would receive at a table in the dining room.  Totally satisfying.  Who knows maybe you’ll see me there tonight.

 

 

 

March 30th – Savoie Dinner

Warm Asparagus Salad, Country Ham
Giachino, Roussette de Savoie, Savoie, France 2005

Roast Hoffman Chicken, Tartiflette Potatoes
Xavier Monot, Maranges Premier Cru “Clos de la Fussière” Burgundy, France 2006

Biscuit de Savoie
Chateau de Suron Quarts de Chaume, Loire Valley, France 2000

 

April 6th – Tuscan Dinner

“Acquacotta”
Tomato, Porcini and Bread Soup
Feudi Della Medusa, Vermentino di Sardegna “Albithia” Italy 2006

Porchetta of Suckling Pig, Farro, Braised Greens and Salsa Verde
Fontodi Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 2004

“Caffè en Forchetta”
Espresso Flan with Candied Almonds and Whipped Cream
D’Ancona Passito de Pantelleria, Pantelleria, Italy 2004

 

April 13th – Anchor Brewing Dinner

Fried Monterey Sardines, Artichokes, Baby Fennel, Sauce Gribiche
Anchor Summer Beer

Housemade Gnocchi, Beef Ragoût, Lucques Olives and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Anchor Porter Beer

Caramel Covered Apple and Toasted Almonds
Anchor Old Foghorn, Barleywine Style Ale

 

April 20th – Celebration of Spring Dinner

Chilled English Soup, Mint Crème Fraîche
Chehalem, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2007

Housemade Potato Gnocchi,
Zuckerman Farms Asparagus, Morel Mushrooms and Ramp Greens, Parmigiano-Reggiano
Artazuri Garnacha, Navarra, Spain 2007

Tahitian Vanilla Angel’s Food Cake,
Riesling Marinated Strawberries
La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti “Bricco Quaglia” Piedmont, Italy 2007

 

Wines subject to change.

For reservations call 415-861-5555 or book online at www.jardiniere.com

Check website for weekly menu updates.

Iconic Importers: How to Buy Great Wine Every Time

A day rarely goes by when someone doesn’t ask me, “What’s your favorite (fill in the blank with a wine type)?”  What should I be buying?  Even my mother will often call me up and say, “Well, we are having lamb chops and a salad, what should we buy.”  Usually this leaves me blank wondering what to say since what is available here in San Francisco is not usually available across the country, prices vary, stock varies, it usually ends up annoying me leaving me to respond, “Call me when you get to the store” and then the tedious back and forth listing of wines…

“Well they have Stag’s Leap!”

“Mom, is that Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars?  or Winery?”

“Stag’s L_eaaa_p it says.”

“But is it WINE CELLARS or WINERY!?”

“What’s the difference?”

“There’s a difference.”

“Well it says Pine Ridge Stag’s Leap.”

**BIG SIGH**

So you can see that it is much easier to give buyers tools that will work whether or not I am available by cell phone!

That’s not to say I blame her, the world of wine is super complicated!  Sometimes I am overwhelmed, and there has been more than once that I have been somewhat desperate in a less than optimal retail store where the quality offerings are few and far between, so I resort to a very simple technique that I think is very reliable!  I merely try to hone in on a variety or style of wine I would like to drink (i.e. Riesling, Pinot Noir, Italian, Spanish) and if I am not familiar with the brand then spin the bottles around and look to see who imports the wine.

An importer is someone who goes through all the procedures to get a wine from its country of origin to the USA.  It then often passes through a distributor and on to a restaurant or retailer before it ends up on your table or in your cellar.  The importer’s job is much more difficult than just dealing with customs, shipping and the like.  More reputable importers take great care and time deciding what they are going to import.  If you want to know the very latest information about any wine region ask an importer that works with wines from that area and undoubtedly they have the most recent and pertinent information.  Ask them where to eat in the tiny towns in those regions and they know.  The best fine-tune their offerings bringing in the best wines they can get.  There is always a great deal of rapport between winemakers and their importers, and while there is a fine line between importers that change styles of wine to suit their constituents and those that merely suggest what styles are doing well in the states, they have their pulse on exactly what is going on in any region they represent.

As you get to know your favorite wine regions and wine styles, you will find which importers suit your tastebuds.  It’s kind of like deciding whether you like to listen to Parker or Tanzer, Decanter or Wine Spectator, or your favorite sommelier.  These importers often have distinct palates and you might see those reflected in their “books”, but if they are one thing they are consistent!

So the next time you are stranded in the wine store and cannot find something to take to a party or drink with dinner, flip those bottles around and get to know your importers, you will be taken on an amazing journey of flavor and discovery!

Here is my “short list” of some of my favorite importers.  This is by no means an exhaustive list, please comment by listing your favorites!  I may seem to be gushing, but I really want you to know how much these guys mean to me!

Terry Theise

 http://www.skurnikwines.com/msw/terry_theise.html

Terry and his cronies visit Austria, Germany and Champagne at least annually to find the very best of the best. He doesn’t merely bring in all wines that his producers make, but he finds the creme de la creme and uses his leverage to fight for as many cases as he possibly can.  Terry has made AMAZING progress in making a name for Riesling in the US, without his efforts we would not see the Riesling Revival as we have in recent years.  He is a friend to his producers, sommeliers and retailers acting as the liaison adeptly with both expertise and humility.  Although he believes that Chardonnay shouldn’t be grown anywhere other than Burgundy or Champagne and is a little militant about that, he is firm in his convictions and has 100% faith in each and every wine he imports.  Add to that his amazing catalogs, all available to read online, that include an amazing wealth of knowledge offered in an incredibly down to earth and fun manner.  You can read all about his latest escapades, the latest vintages, the producers, and Terry’s unique perspective on just about everything.  Including the Horny Funk Brothers, and if that doesn’t make you want to tune in what does?  I would be remiss to not add that Skurnik also works with my former boss and wonderful Burgundy afficionado Daniel Johnnes!

Bartholomew Broadbent

http://www.broadbent-wines.com/wines.cfm

I remember when I met Bartholomew Broadbent I was fresh from NYC and full of dreams of becoming an MW (Master of Wine).  Bartholomew is the son of one of my idols Michael Broadbent, Master of Wine, and I recall that when I ran into Bartholomew at the Balboa Cafe in the Marina District of San Francisco I was star struck.  My husband didn’t initially get it, because B seems like such a “normal” guy, but I explained that talking to him was for me like my husband having a heart to heart with Michael Jordan.  Over the years I have come to understand that Bartholomew has the easy care and humility that is requisite in a true wine professional.  He is cheeky and fun and doesn’t take himself too seriously except when it comes to his producers.  Bartholomew is always generous with his time and his producers are as well, I have met many of them and they are always easily accessible and the wines are absolutely unique.  The fun part of Broadbent Selections is that they have producers representing all corners of the globe, from Aresti in Chile, Spy Valley in New Zealand, Vilafonte and Warwick in South Africa, and Weinert in Argentina, that just scratches the surface!  Some of the more special producers, in my humble opinion, are the amazing wines (both Ports and Portuguese “table wines” for lack of a better term) from Quinta do Crasto in the Douro and the amazing wines of Serge Hochar of Chateau Musar in Lebanon, they never fail to please both in terms of flavor and of the amazing history that goes along with them.  And don’t forget to try Broadbent’s own Madeira and delicious Vinho Verde. 

Brian Larky

http://www.dallaterra.com/

Got Italian?  Ask Larky.  Not only does he know EVERYBODY in the US and Italy, he selects some of the greatest wines around.  Specializing in Italian wines, Brian takes great care to make sure that both his producers and his staff truly understand each others’ world.  He is not afraid to bring the entire staff to Italy to meet his producers and additionally makes sure that his producers are willing to travel to the US to insure that there is a huge interaction of knowledge, camaraderie and a very clear company focus.  His producers are so tight that the sixteen work together voting on any interested new contenders.  With this extremely loyal group (Larky has never lost a producer), his staff truly knows the ins and outs of every product and the producer gets to see how each product is received on the market in person.  This results in great admiration and enjoyment of their wines by the US public.

Rudi Wiest

http://www.rudiwiest.com/wines.htm

Now, don’t get me wrong here, Rudi is not the only great importer of German wines, but I think this is clearly his strong suit.  Recently Rudi held a tasting at Jardiniere restaurant in San Francisco where he wasn’t content to just showcase  his current releases but decided (rightly) that it was vital to show how these white wines age!!  I was astonished to hear the comments from sommeliers invited saying, “wow, this Riesling can really age!”  (Granted the wines he showed were phenomenal)  This reminded me that sommeliers are always learning.  That means that by raiding the cellar, Rudi is educating the buyer.  Rudi is again a humble soul despite his great achievements.  He brings in some of the most incredible wines and never bats an eye.  And to our friend that did not know Riesling can age, he was gracious and very polite but instructive.  Without him we would have much less to smile about.

Jorge Ordonez

http://www.tienda.com/reference/ordonez.html

Jorge Ordonez has done for Spanish wines what Ferran Adria of El Bulli has done for Spanish cuisine.  He has made the most unheard of corners of Spain some of the greatest highlights and has created a Renaissance in Spain’s most traditional regions.  I will drink ANYTHING with a Jorge label on it, no matter where it comes from, because despite all my studies I know that Jorge knows the corners of Spain better than I do.  Perhaps I am partial due to the time that Jorge joined me at my home with some of Spain’s best producers for an after party, but he cannot be stopped.  From the most elite and coveted “cult” wines from Spain (by the way this is a relatively new phenomenon created by Jorge, CULT wines from SPAIN?) to the value wines he brings to us at seemingly impossible prices he has the market cornered.  Granted, there are some great Spanish importers out there, but Jorge is like a hound dog sniffing out the forgotten or newest, greatest find and not only brings the wines to the US but brings the winemakers here.  He even takes our best sommeliers on the famed “death march” so that they can really understand the products and get the lay of the land.  It’s amazing that no one else has really understood the impact of educating the “front line” until recently.  Jorge has known that this formula works for years.  His wines are always great and have kept me company on many a night far from home!

Grape Golf Getaways

When I was younger and my father became a golf fanatic we traveled to any and every golf destination and waited while he played.  We would usually find something to occupy our time, save for that one day he decided to play 36 holes.  It is always a good idea to find a resort that offers more than just the greens.

Santa Barbara Sidesaddle

Alisal Guest Ranch Resort in the Santa Ynez Valley offers much more than two 18-hole championship golf courses. Golfers can enjoy The Ranch Course designed by William Bell Jr., a par 72 course that spans 6,500 yards surrounded by sycamores that give the Alisal its name. There are also 10, 000 plus acres of this working cattle ranch to enjoy. While there are no TVs or phones (and limited cellular phone service), guests can enjoy tennis, hiking, a petting zoo, and riding the 50 miles of trails on horseback. When the morning’s activities have worked up a big thirst guest can jaunt over the bridge to the quaint Danish town of Solvang with wine tasting rooms galore. Try Mandolina (www.mandolinawines.com), Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards (Malbec and Viognier are especially good) www.llwine.com and Stolpman www.stolpmanvineyards.com. There are also many area wineries that offer tours and tastings, most by appointment. The resort offers winemaker dinners, winery tours, boot camps, team building and golf events. For heavy hitters the Alisal even offers “Rent the Ranch Buy Out” programs where for a price you can take over all 73 rooms and the ranch. www.alisal.com 800 688-6411 www.sbcountywines.com

Alisal Trail Ride

 

Livermore Links

A close jaunt from San Francisco, Livermore wine country beckons with multiple wine tasting opportunities. The Course at Wente, a Greg Norman-designed course offers unique opportunities to play and taste. Wente Vineyards offers a Golf Stay & Play package in conjunction with The Lafayette Park Hotel (www.wentevineyards.com). This winery, founded in 1883, is now managed by the fourth and fifth generations of the Wente family. Other local tasting rooms abound, Murrieta’s Well, their White Meritage a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc is especially refreshing after a round (www.murrietaswell.com) , Tamas Estates (www.tamasestates.com) , Concannon Vineyard (www.concannonvineyard.com), Steven Kent Winery www.stevenkent.com) and La Rochelle (www.LRwine.com). Touring information for the area can also be found at www.livermorewine.com.

Karl Wente at Murrieta's Well

Monterey and Carmel

Golfers and foodies alike will find mecca at Pebble Beach Food & Wine to be held April 16-19, 2009. The Lodge at Pebble Beach as well as the Inn at Spanish Bay offer luxurious lodging amidst some of the best and most scenic golf courses in the world, The Pebble Beach Golf Links, The Links at Spanish Bay, and Spyglass Hill Golf Course, considered one of the toughest in the world. (www.pebblebeach.com) During the event numerous wine tastings and culinary opportunities abound as star chefs and wine professionals lead tastings and seminars. If you cannot make it to this premiere event, consider the Monterey County Vintners Great Wine Escape Weekend each November (www.montereywines.org) a weekend of food and wine seminars and dinners at the Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa (www.montereyplazahotel.com) and sneak away for some golf during the afternoon. Or head inland to the Quail Lodge Resort & Golf Club (www.quaillodge.com) in Carmel Valley and take off on your own to area wineries and tasting rooms. Bernardus, Galante and Morgan even have tasting rooms in the town of Carmel, in walking distance of each other and local galleries and restaurants. (www.carmelcalifornia.org) While wineries across the state of California use the delicious Monterey fruit to produce wine, there are some fantastic local tasting rooms a short drive from Monterey or Carmel. (www.montereywines.org)

Zaré at Fly Trap

Mention Hoss Zaré to just about anybody and you will hear exactly the same thing, “Hoss is THE nicest guy,” and I couldn’t agree more.

What does that have to do with the food at Zaré at Fly Trap?  Well, in my opinion just about everything.  I believe that you can taste love in food, grandma’s spaghetti sauce was just about the best thing I’d ever tasted even though she was not Italian and there’s something to be said for food that has been labored over for hours and hours.  Hoss takes extreme pleasure in making people happy with his delicious Persian inspired Mediterranean cuisine as well as his warm and personable manner in the front of the house.  He treats you as if you were a guest in his home when you arrive at Zaré at Fly Trap.  I never quite understand how he can manage to be both omnipresent in the front of house while managing the quality of the food expertly.  Everything he does is thoughtful and his demeanor is always caring.  Eating there just makes you feel good.

Some of my favorite dishes are the most simple, for example the Fried Buffalo Mozzarella served with a perfect amount of baby arugula, salty black olives, red peppers and anchovy vinaigrette.  Other dishes are simple in theory but incorporate innovative techniques such as the not to be missed Smoked Trout with cucumber “linguini”, trout roe and dill creme fraiche.  I’m also in love with the Spice-Roasted Bone Marrow served with the most amazing preserved bergamot.  (For those not familiar with bergamot it is the beautiful citrus that scents Earl Grey tea.  It’s rare to find it fresh and made into this delicious candied preserve.)  The preserve is the perfect foil to the succulent marrow especially with a bit of bitter greens and a few flakes of black salt.

Entrees are also delicious, especially the “Drunken” half chicken which truly tastes labored over, and the Grilled Moroccan-style Wild Salmon which has a mixture of sauces including a cucumber raita that meld together for a truly exotic combination.  Marisa Churchill consulted on the fantastic desserts, Reza Esmaili crafts great cocktails and the wine list created by Master Sommelier Chris Blanchard is exciting and value oriented.

At the end of your meal Hoss will even send you home with a bone for your dog.  He’s just that kind of guy.

Zaré at Fly Trap 606 Folsom Street at 2nd San Francisco, CA 94107 
415-243-0580

Start Spring Training Now for Tales of the Cocktail

Tales of the Cocktail is coming!  I may be a bit premature in getting excited about Tales of the Cocktail, but realistically it is time to start spring training to prepare!  The 7th anniversary Tales of the Cocktail will be held July 8-12, 2009 in New Orleans so save the date!  You can get tickets at www.talesofthecocktail.com in early Spring.  This is truly one of the most fun events of the year, attended by mixologists, bartenders, writers, spirits professionals and more the eventcelebrates spirits of all types with seminars, tastings, parties and more. 

I attended in 2008 and the best news is that, well, I survived!

I am more recent spirits professional, my background has been primarily wine.   I embarked into the spirits industry, due to a love of Tequila.  I even survived multiple trips to Jalisco, Mexico with Julio Bermejo’s of Tommy’s Mexican restaurant.  So, I thought, cool, no problem, I can totally handle this, but I was in for a bit of a surprise…

I set out way early on Wednesday for a 5:45 am flight.  I mean, seriously, this was just cruel torture.  But I had to head through Denver and onto NOLA.  I had barely enough time to grab a pretzel and crawl on board my second flight when I ran into my friend Greg Lindgren of Rosewood and Rye bar in San Francisco, so the flight went really quickly as we discussed my tips for the best food and beverage in the city.  Upon arriving in New Orleans I checked into the Monteleone Hotel, one of the greatest places to stay in the French Quarter.  www.hotelmonteleone.com.  This historic hotel was purchased by Antonio Monteleone in 1886 and over the years has become larger as other properties were added on.  Located in the quarter it is close enough to walk over to the casino and close to where you can pick up a streetcar.  It is also the home of the amazing Carousel Bar, a bar where the center REVOLVES, talk about getting a buzz.  Despite the seemingly “kitschy” atmosphere they make an amazing Pimm’s Cup, a must on your cocktail tour of the quarter.  This trip I had no chance getting a seat at the 25 seat rotating bar as each and every moment it was PACKED.  The hotel is also said to be haunted, but other than the weird twists and turns and subfloors and weird staircases, I didn’t notice any spirits other than the ones I was imbibing.

At any rate, soon I was ensconced in a beautiful corner room with a sitting room, two baths and a bedroom complete with fruit plate and bottled water.  I was in heaven, but who spends time in the room.  I set off almost immediately to hit the Andy Warhol party at the W Hotel hosted by Martini and Rossi.  Martini and Rossi vermouth may at first strike you as something your grandma may drink, but they have really delicious products that make a big impact in cocktails.  I recently met up with pro-football star Jimmy Cefalo and tried his favorite simple drink, a splash of Martini & Rossi red vermouth on ice with some orange juice, actually a really refreshing aperitif.  At the Warhol event they served variations on classics like the Warhol Manhattan (2 parts Martini & Rossi Rosso vermouth, 2 parts Dewar’s White Label, and three cherrries on the rocks.)  For a less potent beverage I preferred the Celebrity Crush (1 & 1/2 parts Martini & Rossi Rosso, 2 parts cranberry juice, 3/4 part simple syrup, 6 fresh raspberries and 12 fresh rosemary needles muddled.)  Afterwards it was quickly off to the Absinthe party promoting the new Absinthe Museum where absinthe relics now live.  It is great to see Absinthe culture embraced in the US, Absinthe is now legal and available to us all.  Then through the sweaty late afternoon heat it was off to a Welcome Reception at the Palace Cafe for Beefeater where I enjoyed an amazing Gin Gin Mule made by Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club in NYC.  Headed over to Emeril’s to see Charlie Brown, great bartender, and my buddy and Saint’s fanatic Steve Russett.  Then the Save the Daiquiri party at Arnaud’s (visit Chris Hannah for a classic French 75), an after party with Jacques Bezuidenhout and bartenders from around the world, and wow, suddenly there I was sneaking away.  This has never happened to me before… I am usually the last to leave!  I slunk back to my room at the Monteleone like an amateur.

Thursday was the first day I hit the seminars.  I’ve been to wine conferences, like the Society of Wine Educators conference http://www.societyofwineeducators.org/public/conference/index.aspx, so I expected this would be much of the same, seminars, information, lots of spitting, but I underestimated my stamina.  Still, I was impressed that I was able to attend four seminars while staying relatively sober.  My only issue with the event was the mere 30 minutes between sessions which kept both attendees and presenters alike scrambling.  I was able to sneak out at about 2pm to hit the Acme Oyster House and grab a debris sandwich.  Debris is the local term for the drippings that come off the roast beef, and it is a 10 napkin job as Acme suggests.  Messy but delicious.  I learned about Molecular Mixology at a seminar where they served us Ramos Marshmallows and Sazerac Gummi Bears, learned How to Taste Like a Pro from Paul Pacult, tasted Cognac and Armagnac, and enjoyed the British Invasion of the American Cocktail Hour, a very creative seminar run by Charlotte Voisey of Hendrick’s Gin.  After all this tasting I found myself once again slinking off to my room where I took a brief rest.  I pondered calling some of the SF Cocktailians, but decided I would be safer just having a peaceful meal by myself at Cochon, my favorite restaurant in NOLA where my former co-worker Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski pay homage to the pig by using just about every conceivable part and actually making it all taste incredible.  I was about to sit at the bar when another Tales attendee, Bill Owens of American Distilling Institute http://www.distilling.com/ invited me to join him and a group of journalists for dinner.  It was fantastic as we tried almost all the items on the menu and ended with some spirits tasting, a tobacco infused something or other.  Then it was off to Muriel’s for a toast to Desmond Payne and once again at the after party I stealthily crept out and away while the cocktail crew partied until the wee hours.

When my alarm went off at 8:30 am I was laying diagonally across the bed fully clothed with all the lights on.  A quick shower and it was off to the Brennan’s http://www.brennansneworleans.com/ media breakfast, no hangover was going to keep me from dining at Brennan’s, plus the hangover didn’t have a chance to arrive.  I was both relieved but slightly scared to see the U’Luvka Bloody Mary waiting for me (made with Trinchero Red Wine http://www.tfewines.com/ and Clamato).  The breakfast included a baked apple served in a rich double cream sauce with cinnamon toast, Eggs Hussarde (an egg poached on a Holland rusk with Canadian bacon) and Eggs Sardou (poached eggs over an artichoke heart on a bed of creamed spinach) both smothered in Hollandaise, and of course their famous Bananas Foster for dessert, all served with Louis Latour Grand Ardeche.  It was incredible.  I tried, I really did, to go to a seminar after, but it just didn’t happen.  Instead I invested in a nap and then crept off to my favorite sandwich shop in the quarter, Verti Marte, where I got the shrimp po’ boy undressed with butter and pickles and my favorite Zapp’s Crawtators (crawfish flavored potato chips).  I nearly raced over to Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop bar and with my Abita (a local brew) in hand devoured my sandwich finally felt human again.  A rum seminar, a liqueur seminar and then it was off to the Bloody Mary Competition at the House of Blues, where sadly the SF contingent didn’t win, despite what I thought were the best bloody marys there.  We headed to the casino for some craps (I won!). 

Bloody Mary Competition: Greg Lindgren and David Nepove, The SF Contingent

By Saturday I had about given up.  I went on the streetcar to take in the sights.  It had rained a bit and was a moist but cooler day as I strolled back down Magazine Street where there are some great shops.  I ended up walking all the way back to the casino sweating out the booze.  By early evening I was ready to get some food at Harrah’s Besh Steakhouse (I used my casino points too!) and enjoyed some steak tartare, an iceberg wedge and a bottle of Austrian Riesling.  Although I was trying to hide, I found myself back at the casino almost immediately as most were gathering for the Spirits Awards.  I ended up eating a second meal just a few hours later at Mother’s, played some roulette and then it was off to the Bartender’s Midnight Breakfast at Cafe Giovanni.  Somehow in New Orleans time morphs and you don’t quite know where the hours really go, this was how I felt when we were traipsing around the quarter to quickly brightening blue skies wading in muck and being splashed by the street cleaners as they tried to sweep the night’s mayhem under the rug.  I found myself ordering a beer at 7:30 am and decided to call it a night and said goodbye to my co-conspirators in the bright sunlight.

Dawn on Bourbon, the Street that is...

If you decide to go:

2009 Tales of the Cocktail Spring Training List

Practice carrying martini glasses filled to the brim (I am used to walking around with wine glasses, so carrying martini glasses around is not my thing, they spill so much more easily!)

Work on stamina (these attendees are super stars, they can surely hold their liquor, so I need to work on sipping spirits slowly so I can hang with the big dogs)

Plan out meals better (There is so much to eat in New Orleans and I just scratched the surface, make plans and reservations now!)

Invest in some cute closed-toe shoes for the late night walks home through the muck of Bourbon Street (sandals just didn’t cut it and I had to santize my feet and shoes afterwards)

Some great cocktails:

 Jamboozle (Charlotte Voisey)

2 oz Hendrick’s Gin

2 bar spoons blackberry jam

1/4 oz Chambord or creme de mure

1/2 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice

Assemble and shake well, strain over crushed ice and garnish with a lemon wheel and blackberry.

Sun and Moon

2 oz U’Luvka Vodka

1 oz Pineapple Puree

2 tsp Simple syrup

1/2 oz lime juice

sage leaves

Club soda

Muddle the sage with simple syrup, add the rest of the ingredients with a scoop of crushed ice, mix then top with club soda.  Garnish with a wheel of pineapple or a sage leaf.

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Vermouth? Really?

Most folks see vermouth as that dusty bottle on the back bar that bartenders pretend to add to their martini, but vermouth has been totally underestimated! Vermouth is an aromatized wine, a lightly fortified wine with added botanicals. It can be either red or white.  The recipe is closely guarded by each vermouth producer, the formula for Martini & Rossi dates back to 1863 and there are as many as forty botanicals in each of their vermouth styles.  Martini & Rossi also does not pasteurize their vermouth, but only lightly filters it.  Martini & Rossi is also well known for its Asti Spumante, a charmat method sparkling wine from the town of Asti in Piedmont.  Made from Moscato and at about 7.5% alcohol it’s a lively floral white sparkler. 

My first wine trip was in fall of 1993.  I was just out of college and was fortunate enough to be invited on a trip to Piedmont by Carlo Petrini and Slow Food.  This was before most of us even knew of the Slow Food movement.  We were extremely lucky, the ten of us, as we had the chance to visit multiple producers and basically live in Piedmont for 21 days.  It was towards the end of our trip when we were told we were going to go to Martini & Rossi, producer of Asti Spumate and Vermouth.  Now I had heard of Martini & Rossi before, seen it on bars all over the place, and I have to admit I was a bit jaded by this point in the trip.  We had tasted unbelievable Barolos and Barbarescos from Ceretto, Chiarlo, Vietti, and many many more.  We had had dinner with Angelo Gaja, who said “The women will sit next to ME!”  We had been wined and dined and had eaten more meat braised in wine than anyone could imagine.  Brats that we were, we were tired and irritated to have to drive out of our comfort zone for this visit.

We couldn’t have been more wrong, and man was I humbled.  The property was exceptional.  They had an amazing wine museum, but best of all, before we knew what was happening, we were ushered in to a wood paneled room complete with a full bar.  Before our eyes appeared aperitifs, and one of these was vermouth.  Vermouth both red and white, can be a delicious start to a meal.  The pleasant bitterness piques the palate and prepares it for food.  We were immediately put in a better mood and became much more comfortable after sipping these drinks.  Then we were escorted into a gorgeous dining room where we were served the most incredible Fontina cheese soup, called Fonduta.  It was covered in white truffles and ladled into our bowls from a large tureen.  As I gawked at the many white truffles floating in my bowl out of nowhere appeared a gentleman with white gloves and epaulettes who proceeded to shave MORE white truffle into my bowl.  I waited an embarassingly long time until I realized that he would continue shaving until I asked him to stop, so, somewhat reluctantly, I asked him to cease shaving.  After lunch and a delicious Bricco del Uccelone Barbera, they served us one of the most ethereal wines on earth, Asti Spumante.  While we had tried many Moscato d’Asti along our route, a less bubbly version, this was my first real Asti Spumante.  The effusive aromas of white grapes and flowers filled the glass and the low alcohol enabled us to drink it very easily.  The fully sparkling nature of the wine again cleansed our palates.  Just when we thought it was all over, another door opened and we were brought back to the bar/study to relax with Port and after lunch drinks.  

The lesson learned was that sometimes what may seem at first mundane can be extremely pleasurable in the proper context.  The experience taught me to be humble in everything I do and to refrain from generalizations or assumptions that are unmerited.  So I urge you to go and toast humility with a Martini & Rossi Vermouth or their Asti Spumante, and remember how wonderful they can be.

Martini & Rossi Rosso with Orange

In a rocks glass pour some Martini and Rossi Rosso and add a splash of Orange Juice.  Seems simple, and it is, but it’s extremely refreshing and gets the palate excited for food.  For the holidays try variations such as adding some nutmeg, orange peel or spices.

Martini & Rossi Celebrity Crush

I tasted this at the Martini & Rossi Andy Warhol Martini Factory Party at Tales of the Cocktail.  1 & 1/2 parts Martini & Rossi Rosso vermouth, 2 parts cranberry juice, 3/4 part simple syrup, 6 raspberries, 12 fresh rosemary needles.  Muddle raspberry, rosemary and syrup in a shaker, add ice, vermouth and cranberry juice, shake and strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with rosemary sprig skewer with raspberries.

Aperitif (Before)

Digestif (After)

Fonduta with White Truffles